A bad meal, a good meal, a good conversation

Despite a bad service experience at La Poesia yesterday, I convinced M to eat breakfast there again today. It is such an amazing little cafe and the coffee and food is so good, plus writers hang out there, I'm sure.
But once again, our bad 'camarero' Alejandro was working, frantically striding up and down the wooden floors, taking orders, delivering medialunas and generally looking very important. We sat and waited for a while, reading the Buenos Aires Herald and pretending we didn't care how long we had to wait. But we were both secretly fuming at his dismissive approach (or lack thereof).
After a delicious breakfast and a resolve to go somewhere else for a more relaxed breakfast next time, we headed up Defensa to do a reconnaissance to find a church which was holding a concert that afternoon. The San Telmo markets had begun already and we wandered slowly, stopping to browse and ask a few 'Cuanta cuestas?'. I managed to procure two delightful vintage dresses on the way, amidst confusion of my whereabouts for poor M when I went off to try on the dress in to a building and didn't return for half an hour. Once I was back and safe, he headed home with the bounty to rest his ailing ankle and I had some heavy duty shopping to do. I work best alone when it comes to shopping and I found a treasure trove of goodies. Within an hour I'd bought a pair of red leather vintage tango shoes; and they were my size, que sorpresa! Only $60 Arg ($20 aus). Then I picked up an antique lace and silk nightie, beautiful capped sleeves and super soft, looks like never been worn, only $40 Arg. Then I bought a little black leather bag with gold chain, kind of a Chanel rip off but not branded thankfully.

As I bounded down the stairs of the Mercado to head home, the sun was shining and all the Portenos were out eating lunch and enjoying the weather. Couples kissed at tables over papas fritas and the smell of grilled delights filled the air. I came home to M and told him we should head out to eat and he agreed so we went to a pub on our street which we've been dying to try; El Federal.

Owned by the same people as La Poesia and almost the same menu, but the experience was 100% better. Our camarero was so friendly and understood my Spanish (always good news) and the food was divine. We ordered a picado, or a plate of things to pick at. We had the Gran Federal plate with olives, salami, prosciutto, blue cheese, mantega cheese, tiny slices of tortilla, artichoke hearts and fresh soft bread. Oh and two cervezas.

With full bellies we left the restaurant and realising it was 3.30pm and the concert was at 4.30pm, we stopped home for a momentito to refresh then headed out to the church. The concert was a recital and live recording of a piece with percussion and piano and a choir of many. We had to line up to get in and luckily nabbed spaces for two on the tiny pews along with lots of old ladies dressed in their finery.

I noticed the two little ladies beside me were chatting to each other and sending text messages. They asked me a question which I didn't quite catch then we started a delightful conversation in Spanish; me telling them where we were from, talking about where Darwin is, them asking me where I learnt Spanish, talking about Barcelona and Buenos Aires; basic stuff but the most fruitful conversation I've had during my time here so far.

The piece then started. The craft of the music and voices were amazing, but about 20mins in, my bum was numb from sitting on the tiny hard pews, we were all cramped up together as there were so many people there and I fought hard to keep my eyes open. An hour and a half later it finished thankfully and M and I breathed sighs of relief, as did my new friends beside us. We had another chat with them and they told us about the old church and how they didn't enjoy the piece so much either (although they seemed quiet as church mouses and stoically sat up straight for the duration while I fidgeted).

M and I then said adios and mucho gusto to the ladies and wandered back home through the markets which were in full swing.